Interview Evgenii Fedko in MJSA JOURNAL april 2021
MJSA Journal is devoted to keeping professional jewelry designers and manufacturers of all sizes informed, inspired, and profitable. It provides readers with the latest technical insights, bench tips, fashion trends, and business and marketing strategies.every month, the Journal reaches an average of 5,000 targeted readers throughout the united States and around the world.
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Of the many metaphors for life,
New Jersey–based Evgenii Fedko elected to portray life as a river in his titanium and gold bracelet, aptly named River of Life. In the bracelet, the blue titanium water flows from link to link, carrying a golden branch that floats along with the changing current.
“Life is like a river in that sometimes it is quiet, calm, and peaceful, while sometimes it is fast flowing with ups and downs,” says Fedko of his design, a finalist in the gold/platinum division of the 2020 Saul Bell Design Award competition. “In each segment of the bracelet, the branch that floats along the river is never the same, being impacted each moment by the events and people surrounding it.”
To create the River of Life, Fedko started by designing the hinged frameshaped links in CAD and casting the models in 18k white gold. He then cast a flat 18k white gold component for the back of each link in the design of a spider web. Metaphorically, the spider web represents the obstacles we get caught in throughout life, while practically, all of the cutouts in the pieces provide a peek inside at the beautifully patterned and colored titanium “river” elements. He laser welded the spider web pieces into the links to form the basis of the bracelet.
Next, he hand fabricated the 18k yellow gold branch and the titanium “river” components for each segment of the bracelet. He cut the titanium pieces from sheet to fit each link, then used a ball graver and a round graver to engrave each section by hand. He then oxidized the titanium components with a torch to achieve the beautiful blue colors for the river.
“I carefully cleaned and polished the titanium prior to oxidation, then watched the color change carefully to get the desired blue,” Fedko explains.
He made the branch by hand fabricating 18k yellow gold, using a micromotor and various burs to accomplish an undulating texture that resembled driftwood.
To assemble the components, Fedko drilled holes through the branch pieces and titanium sheets and attached them with pins that he riveted from the back of the titanium. The titanium sheets were then inserted into the gold bracelet components and laser welded into place. To connect the bracelet links, Fedko attached hinge components to the sides of each segment.
As a final decorative touch, Fedko pavé set about 600 diamonds total around the gold frames, helping to distract from the connection points between links.
To secure the piece, a handmade 18k white gold clasp slides into one of the links of the bracelet behind the titanium element, so as not to interrupt the flow of the river. When the two pins are pressed— the top one has a diamond set into it— simultaneously, a spring mechanism is deployed to open and close the piece.
“When the bracelet is worn,” says Fedko, “it symbolizes the eternal flow of life.”
